Bosch MUM5XW20 test: a pastry robot with German know-how

Ease of use

As we wrote earlier, the MUM 5 is available in multiple colors, and sometimes comes with accessories. In the MUM5XW20 version, the robot wears a very original and delicate “champagne” dress, even if we regret the shell made entirely of plastic. Handles are designed on either side of the device to make it easy to move. The featherweight of 3.9 kg also greatly simplifies the task; it’s also the lightest robot we had to test, just behind the Proline RP11.

Its peculiarity lies in its articulated arm. Unlike many of its competitors that simply move their heads up and down, the Bosch MUM5XW20 moves 180°. He can therefore place an accessory under his nose, like all banquet robots, but also on his head and on his back.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

The pastry set slides onto the bottom. It traditionally consists of three points: the whisk, the blade and the kneader. But Bosch has opted for a soft-edged blade that surprises with its shape and weight: it weighs just 110g, which is almost five times lighter than that of the Kenwood Titanium Pastry Chef XL. Without even starting the tests, we give a small caveat regarding the confirmation of this pastry set. While most devices use a bayonet system, the MUM5 differs. The tips fit into the designated slot and the user just needs to pull on them to remove them. Watch out for splashes! Depending on the preparation, damage may result from pulling a little too hard.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

To fix them, you need to lift the robot’s head. This requires the user to press a button. Nothing could be simpler, a wheel is installed on the other side of the robot and controls the execution speed of the device. Seven speeds are then provided by Bosch, as well as a “boost” speed. We also notice that the accessory always stops in the same position, at the back of the bowl, to avoid hitting the bowl when the robot’s head is lifted.

A light ring lights up when the robot is working.

A light ring lights up when the robot is working.

This tank has a capacity of 3.9 l, the lowest in our comparison at the moment, behind the KitchenAid Artisan Mini. Strictly speaking, it has no handles, but a border that serves the same function. The comfort is clearly less and we continue to prefer the single handle, the most practical when baking.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

Finally, the MUM5XW20 has a fairly concise screen with two touch keys. It is also the only model in the range to be equipped with it. The first button turns the scale on and off, while the second button tares and resets the timer. The latter makes it easy to time the robot’s operation; a countdown cannot be started to turn off the device after X minutes. And by holding down both keys at the same time, the user can change the unit of measurement of the scale.

If this statement is not included in the assessment, we still wanted to know the correctness of the scale. While our contents reach 68.5g compared to our lab, it weighs just 65g once placed in the MUM 5’s bowl.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

Editor's rating: 4 out of 5

Performance

It’s time to test for the Bosch pastry robot. Our protocol imposes four different recipes, all made identical for each device.

Beaten eggwhite

The egg white is an essential base in pastries and we then evaluate the speed of the devices to whip up 70 g of protein (the equivalent of two eggs). If the amount is low, it’s a choice we made to separate the robots that manage to reach the bottom of the bowl correctly from those that don’t.

The MUM 5 obtains stiff protein in 81 s, a result that is within the mean of our equation. In comparison, the Moulinex Masterchef Gourmet, one of the best in this test, had reached its target in just 37 seconds.

But when it’s slower, the Bosch stays efficient as its white doesn’t go down even after 15 minutes of rest.

Genoese

This test measures the ability of the whisk to emulsify well and that of the flat beater to integrate powders into a liquid preparation. On the first part of the recipe, the MUM turned out to be excellent and managed to give a lot of volume to the eggs mixed with sugar. Small problem with the second part of the recipe: the drummer would indeed have needed more time to reach his goal.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

This will leave lumps behind and affect the taste. The whisk still has the credit of giving it a very airy cake, reaching 4.6cm when it comes out of the oven – the highest we’ve been able to achieve.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

Pastry

Equipped only with the blade this time, the MUM 5 should make a shortcrust pastry. We turn on the robot and notice that the flat beater scrapes the bowl perfectly. The device then manages to mix the butter and flour correctly, but takes a little longer than some competitors, such as the Kenwood Cooking Chef XL. After adding the water, the appliance manages to form a homogeneous dough, only a few traces of butter are still visible.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

bread dough

The perfect test to determine the robot’s endurance is that of bread dough. We knead the dough a first time at power 1, a second time we increase the power by one notch, then a last time at full speed. Obviously this last step is not recommended in the recipe and is done for observation and scoring purposes. The robot is therefore pushed to its limits for 30 s.

And the lightweight Bosch isn’t its best ally when it comes to staying down to earth. The robot shakes like a leaf, so much so that we have to hold it.

Apart from this minor incident, the bread rises correctly and reaches 6.3 cm when it comes out of the oven. It lacks a few millimeters to achieve the best, including those formed by the Miogo MRPM1.

Bosch MUM5XW20: a pastry robot with German know-how

Strengths

  • Compact size.

  • Very effective whip.

  • Silent robot.

Weak points

  • Flat beater struggles with liquid preparations.

  • Very unstable.

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